Usually, abrading is being done before final finishing post sealing. Abrading will act as an adhesion to have a proper bonding between intermediate layers and final coats on the wooden floor. With advancement in innovation, some of the best quality finishing products don’t need an abrading prior to final finishing. It also depends on the time gap between intermediate sealing coat and final coat. It is always advisable to abrade the floor if we have a gap of more than 48 hours between an intermediate coat and final coat. Abrading will also help to smoothen out the application of last coat.

If decided, follow the same machining and application technique as in sanding and buffing but with higher grit sanding/buffing pads. My recommendation is always to use a multi-disk sander where higher grit sanding/buffing papers can be mounted on the intermediate pads of the sanding wheels. Use the same direction as that of wooden grains in abrading the floor for final finishing. Some of the tips and techniques been used for abrading as below –  

–        It’s better to abrade twice quickly than once too slow.

–        Take extra care to not to heel the buffer as this may cause burning through sealer and stain.

–        Abrade the details of the floor such as corner and edges by hand by using same grit of abrasive on hand block or on the bottom of the mop base.

Ensure to clean the floor in detail using necessary vacuum cleaners. Ensure to clean the edges and corner of the application area to ensure consistent high-quality finishing.

Before applying final finishing adjust the environment as needed and cut off all airflow to the application area. Place walk off towels at all entrances and mop off the floor to ensure we do not have any residual debris on the floor. It is important to design an application game plan as it could differ from the plan that we have used in sealing or staining the same wooden floor. Make sure to use different roller than that of one being used in sealer application. Vacuum the roller and rinse it with water which will be dried almost all the way by leaving it just slightly damp just as needed. As before, roller needs to be attached to the roller handle which will be extended using extender pole. As above, the cut-in pad is also needed to apply the final finishing at the corner and edges of the application area. Repeat the roller process to make cutting pad ready for application.

For any kind of finish, ensure to have all individual safety relevant gears places prior to initiate the job. Make sure to shake the finishing material for 30- 45 seconds. Add the harder to the finishing and make sure to shake the mixture for an additional 30-45 seconds. Shaking the mixture in different directions and in different angles will ensure a better mix of finishing material. While preparing your finishing material, it is important to prepare only one gallon of finish completely before we move it on to the next one. To ensure consistency and contingency it is advisable to have an extra gallon of finish staged throughout the job site.

While rolling off the finishing, rolling in sections will help to maintain and have complete control over the job site. Using this method, a single individual professional can complete almost any size of the job himself as necessary. We can usually start by pouring the 4-6-inch-wide line of finish along the section of the wall where we like to start. Cutting along the starting wall section and 3-4 feet of the sides of the section, pulling a dry line where needed. Then roll your cutting areas and middle of the section. Another method for a successful roller application might be called the spread and feather technique. Pour a line of finish down our transition line and cut in down the sides of the section usually 3-4 feet. Spread out the finish by sliding roller behind the puddle pulling it towards you. Roll back along the same path, sliding the roller behind next section. Work all the way down the line of the finish to the far side. Work our way back across that section feathering out each path. Once the whole section feathered out, pour another line of finish from our transition line and cut in starting the new section.

We will allow the finish to dry until it loses all its tackiness. Then we can put back the airflow back on along with fan boxes on doorways to assist in the drying process. Most of the good quality water based finishes dry out in 2-4 hours. If you decide to have the second coat of finishing, ensure to follow exact same tools, techniques, and recommendation provided during first coat. Ensure to keep your application areas dry and clean in controlled airflow as needed.